Introduction
Cycling in France, where do you begin! If you like mountains then this narrows it down rapidly to either the Alps, the Pyrenees or Provence for the famous Mont Ventoux. We visited Mont Ventoux for the first time in 2023 and we liked it so much we had to go back in 2024 but what should we tag on to extend the trip? Since we have been to the Alps before it made sense that we visited the Pyrenees and after some research and recommendations from friends, we decided on Luchon for the first base there. We compiled a list of all the Cols that just had to be ridden, The problem was there were too many! As we had no return Ferry booked, we decided to just start the trip and decide what to do after we had been there for a few days.
The Adventure in Detail
Part 1 – Bedoin
We arrived in Bedoin on the evening of July 11th, with the Tour de France in full swing and just ahead of Bastille Day, so plenty of entertainment for the next few days! We planned to tackle Mont Ventoux on the 13th but as the weather looked unfavourable, we postponed it to the 14th. So we had two days of easy riding to ensure full energy for the big day.
On the 12th we explored around Malaucene for 45km and on the 13th, we rode a circular 82km loop south of Bedoin. Everywhere around here is similar, quiet roads, beautiful scenery and great coffee stops. Early to bed and the next day was the highlight of the first week. The Ventoux Cinglet for Mark and Zuzana doing 2 or maybe 3 of the ways up.
Day 3 – Mont Ventoux! Legendary, super tough, long climbs and really tests your fitness! As we had done it before, we knew what to expect, which helps a lot! The hardest ascent first from Bedoin, then the maybe slightly easier ascent from Malaucene and to finish, the easiest ascent from Sault. Unbelievable days cycling, it is simply an epic route, amazing views, amazing atmosphere with all the other cyclists undertaking it and a big tick when completed.
Detailed description of the Mont Ventoux day further down below.
The day after Ventoux we were quite sensible and just did a one hour easy spin round the local lanes enjoying the quiet quietness and pretty views. Day 5 was to visit Les Gorge de Nesque, which we had done before but in a rush. Today we took it steady and enjoyed the beautiful views as we climbed up the gorge. Over the top we made a brief stop in Moneaux which is stunningly pretty with its tiny streets and then on to Sault. On the way back we took the scenic route on the D217 through Flassan back to Bedoin. Day 6 and like the previous visit we couldn’t resist another ascent of Mont Ventoux. Mark also couldn’t resist wanting to ride up Les Gorge Nesque faster, while Zuzana wanted to enjoy the more direct forest route. So we met in Sault for a coffee and then enjoyed riding up Ventoux together, taking lots of photos. This is by far the easiest side to climb. After the ride we decided it was best to find somewhere to stay in Luchon and booked a hotel for four nights. Day 7 was our last day here but we couldn’t resist a quick spin on the bikes before driving, so we rode over the Col Madeleine to near Malaucene, then swung South and did a really enjoyable loop back round taking in Crillon le Brave.
Part 2 – Luchon
Luchon turned out to be a really pretty, small sized town and a great base with access to lots of Cols. After the first bike ride and discovering how fantastic it was we extended the stay twice and ended up spending seven nights there. The roads were all good surface, pretty quiet and very friendly drivers which made for very pleasant bike rides. The climbs were quite long with average gradients stated at around 7 or 8% but felt like 9 or 10%. The first ride was me on my own climbing the col de Peyresourde, Col de Azet and back over the Peyresourde, It was very spectacular, proper mountain views and riding through ski resorts.
Day 2 we planned the Port de Bales and unexpectedly encountered a sportive doing the same route so we were surrounded by hundreds of excited bike riders, that was great fun!
Day 3, we drove over the col de Aspin to Saint-Larey-Soulan and rode up to the lakes by Lac de Cap de Long. Once we cleared the tree line, the views opened up before us and the lake at the top was stunning! Drink and crepe at the cafe and back down to the car.
Day 4 was the Tourmalet, again a short drive to get closer to it. This climb is legendary in the Tour de France and after riding it, it is fully justified! I rode up the East side, quick stop at the top to refill the bottles and down the other side with amazing views, quite a few cyclists on this route. After a ride around the town straight back up the West side of the Tourmalet, to meet Zuzana at the top. Photos at the monument and then we rode back down together to the car.
Day 5 we drove to near Arreau, then did both sides of the Col d’Aspin. This is another beautiful climb, lots of cows at the top and a few walkers. Down at the bottom of the West side it’s not far to the Tourmalet, so I couldn’t resist the first few kilometres as warm up for the return climb of the West side of the d’Aspin.
Day 6 was a gentle 30km recovery ride. In the evening, up in the cable car to the ski resort at Superbagneres, as there was an annual Pyrenean festival taking place with the fires. We also decided on our next and final location to be Ax Les Thermes, not too far away, just North of Andorra, so booked a place to stay.
Day 7, This was the last day here and some driving later, so a short ride, straight up the Col de Superbagneres and it was a lot harder on the bikes than the night before in the cable car! Super spectacular views the last few km to the peak.
Part 3 – Ax les Thermes
This was a three night stay, two nights in an Airbnb and two nights in a hotel. This town is famous for it’s thermal waters And a great base for skiing and cycling. Day one, we drove a short way to Les Cabannes, the base of another famous Tour de France climb, Plateau de Beille. This one did not disappoint, it was tough, long enough, amazing views and a great feeling at the summit! Orangina and Omelette for nutrition and back down we went. Day2 was a climb to the east of the town starting straight away up the Col de Pailheres. Maybe it was the legs getting fatigued by now but this climb was quite long and relentless as well as going up to high altitude. More amazing views, the usual cows at the top and a few cyclists. A few photos and back down to Ax and a walk around the town.
Day 3 was a planned 1 Col but we couldn’t resist tacking on another on the way back! Climbing straight away, the same start as the previous day but splitting off to the left, the Col de Pradel. It was almost as tough as Pailheres! Turnaround but just before the bottom, a right turn and up the Col de Chioula. This one was a little bit easier but still had some steep sections. A quick look at the view and back down to the town for food and drinks. A bit sad as we would be leaving the next day and there were a few Cols we hadn’t ridden!
Day 4 was our last day of the trip so pack up and head to Barcelona for the ferry.